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Waldport, Oregon History, Part
2
Attie Bray, Hattie Starr, Clarence
Starr's wife, and Una Baldwin were three others of
Creffield's flock who came from families that had
homesteaded on the Coast Attie Bray was the first white
child whose birth was recorded in the settlement of Ocean
View. Her mother was Georgianah Starr, Sarah Hurt's older
sister. Her father, Ira Bray, was terribly harsh with his
five children. It was reported that he would eat candy in
front them and tell them they couldn't have any because they
were bad. When his sons would go hunting, he would only give
them three gun shells. He would then belittle them if they
didn't come home with at least one shell for future use, and
complained bitterly that the makings for the shells had to
be ordered from the east.
Hattie Starr was six in 1878 when her
father, Thomas Baldwin, settled at the Devil's Bend in
Bayview. Hattie said their first house there, a small Indian
shelter, was so small she had to put her head out the window
to brush her hair. The region was still so remote that when
her eleven-year-old sister, Minnie died, she had been buried
for two weeks before word reached her father in the
Willamette Valley, where he was away on business.
Una Baldwin's parents were Edwin Baldwin,
another of Thomas Baldwin's children, and Victoria Ruble.
Victoria's parents, David and Orlena Ruble, are considered
the founders of Waldport. In 1884 President Arthur issued
David Ruble a platt for Waldport, and he proceeded to lay
out the town's streets. Having no transit, he used the stars
as his guide. The town of Waldport, its wooden sidewalks
always covered with windblown sand and with wagons mired on
barely navigable streets, was built on a sand spit that had
been an old Indian burial ground. Graves could be found
everywhere in Waldport. If a body was covered, it had been
covered by Mother Nature, for coastal Indians did not cover
their dead with earth. To do so, might make it difficult for
the Spirit to go free.
If a body was placed in a coffin, it was
buried with the top level with the ground, and loose
hand-split shakes were put over it. A man's silver coins
were put in his mouth, and his paper currency was placed
under his shoulders. If a man owned a canoe, his body, along
with some of his belongings, was put inside, and loose
shakes were put over it. If a man owned two canoes, the
second one was put over the first upside down. Many of these
tombs could be found among the bull pines and salal bushes,
and animals preyed on the bodies. Remains were scattered
about, and it was not uncommon for the barefoot children of
homesteaders to overturn a rock with their toe, and to
discover that the rock was a human skull.
Baldwin built a sawmill in the early
1880s. He brought the boiler and engine from Yaquina Bay on
a sled pulled by one ox along a narrow Indian trail. Much of
the time the trip took was spent widening the trail to
accommodate the sled. The lush primeval forest on the coast
had thousand-year-old trees that were hundreds of feet high
and tens of feet thick. In some places the vegetation was so
dense that it was dark even under a bright midday sun. Most
of the loggers who came to fell these trees were from New
England and the Midwest, and brought with them knowledge of
bull teams, caulk boots, and cuss words.
They worked from dawn to dusk for about a
dollar a day and lived in crowded bunkhouses that were dark
and smelled of wool clothing drying, wood burning, sweat,
kerosene, well-used spittoons, and whiskey. Turnover at
logging camps was high. There was an infinite number of
reasons men gave for leaving--weather too hot, weather too
cold, lumber too heavy, pay too light, grub too greasy,
coffee too weak, too many Swedes, too many Finns, too many
of the boss's relatives in crew, too far from Portland, too
close to Portland, timekeeper crooked, and flat beer in the
local tavern.
A cannery was also established on the
Alsea Bay. The fish were so plentiful, it was said, that
they practically jumped into the fishing boats by
themselves. When the salmon were running, Chinese laborers
came to work in the cannery. They brought with them all the
supplies used in the process, including the sheets of tin
that they made into cans. The canners worked fast because
there was no refrigeration. By the end of the day, some fish
at the bottom of barrels were on the soft side. Fish not
canned the day they were brought in were discarded or buried
in yards and used as fertilizer. 
In some ways, for the day and age, the
hundred-odd people who lived in Waldport were open minded.
One of their most respected citizens was Louis Southworth, a
black man. At the time, it was for all intents and purposes
illegal to live in Oregon if you were black. A law
forbidding slavery was passed in 1844, but the same law said
that if free blacks remained in the state for more than
three years, they were to receive up to thirty-nine lashes
on the back once every six months until they left.
"Jim [Doty, a nearby homesteader]
and I were the first two white men on the bay," Southworth
was fond of saying. Southworth was born as a slave in
Kentucky, brought to Oregon in 1851, and later purchased his
freedom with gold he dug out of Yreka and Jacksonville
mines.
There is no record of when the first
preacher came to the town. Early church services were held
out of doors, with benches made out of drift logs pushed
together and planks laid across them. As the population
grew, so did the number of itinerant evangelists.
In 1882, David Ruble donated a lot in
Waldport for a community church. He said it was to be
nonsectarian, but stipulated that neither a Catholic nor a
Mormon could preach in it.
At one point a small settlement of
Mormons lived up nearby Drift Creek. A schoolteacher there,
Joe Gideon, caused a small sensation when it was learned he
was teaching the Mormon children the world was round. One
women said to her neighbor: "But, of course, I tell mine
different when they get home."
Lou Southworth's happiness for a long
time came from going to church, where he played his violin.
Then his name was dropped from its roll.
- The brethren wouldn't stand for my
violin, which was all the company I had most of the time
[Southworth said wistfully]. They said it was
full of all sorts of wicked things and that it belonged
to the devil. I inquired if there's music up in heaven
and they told me that there is. But when I asked them if
I could play a little of it here below, they couldn't
answer that to suit a fellow like me. And it hurt me a
good deal when they told me that playin' a fiddle is
unbecomin' to a Christian and the sight of the Lord. So I
told them to keep me in the church would be with my
fiddle. I couldn't think of parting with my old
friend.
- They turned me out, and I reckon my
name isn't written in their books any longer. But I
somehow hope it's written in the big book up yonder in
the land of golden harps where they aren't as particular
about an old man's fiddle. And sometimes I think that
when you go up yonder and find my name, to your surprise
in the big book, you'll meet many a fellow who remembers
the old fiddler who played Home Sweet home, Dixie Land,
Arkansas Traveler, Swanee River and other tunes for the
boys who were far away from home the first time. And
they'll talk over the days where there was no society for
men like out West; when there wasn't any Bible and hymn
books were unknown; when play' poker and buckin' faro
were the only schooling a fellow ever got; when whiskey
ran like water and made the whites and Indians crazy;
when men didn't go by their right names and didn't care
what they did. And when they talk over those early days,
the fellows will say, "Where you all been and what'd we
all done in the mines but for Uncle Lou's fiddle, which
was most like a church of anything we had?" For the boys
used to think the good Lord had put a heap of old-time
religion music into my fiddle and the old-time religion
music is good enough for an old man who's done some
mighty hard work in his eighty-five years.
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